Showing posts with label creme fraiche. Show all posts
Showing posts with label creme fraiche. Show all posts

01 June, 2010

A change in plan.

A couple days ago, I'd planned to tell you a bit more about Burgundy, and then to share with you a new dessert I'd discovered and fallen in love with while visiting friends there. However, trying to replicate the dessert in question, I found myself at the center of a demoralizing fiasco. Granted, I used a blend of millet and rice flours because I'd run out of regular flour, the oven light went out, and the stars weren't in ideal alignment so maybe all that helped account for the spherical doorstop that emerged from my oven. At least the chickens loved the cake; good thing, as I'd made two doorstops.

I went into the garden and weeded, watered and pruned with a vengeance. I mulled over alternate recipes. I gardened some more. And some more after that. I suppose you could call that productive sulking. As yesterday was Mother's Day here in France and I wasn't in the mood to risk another blow to my shaken culinary ego, I opted for a more forgiving dessert, which I made with the children. The little lemon tree is hunched over with the burden of all its fruit. (I am fairly certain that heaven smells like a lemon tree). It'll soon be time for some lemon marmalade, but for now I had the kids pick some strawberries from the garden and four of the ripest lemons for a classic lemon pound cake, made with unctuous crème fraîche. This recipe allows for substitutions, such as mascarpone instead of crème fraîche, orange or lime juice and zest instead of lemon, and additions, such as poppy seeds (a 1/3 cup should do the trick). This is a rich dessert, as easy to make as it is to enjoy, and just the thing for soothing a bruised ego. Or celebrating spring, and oneself. Quatre-quarts citronné (Crème Fraîche & Lemon Pound Cake)

Serves 10-12 people.

3 1/2 cups flour (not whole wheat)
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, softened
2 1/2 cups sugar
3 eggs
3 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed
grated and finely minced zest of four lemons
1 cup crème fraîche, or mascarpone

Optional lemon glaze
2 tablespoons lemon juice, fresh squeezed
1 cup confectioner's sugar

Preheat oven 180C. Thoroughly grease and flour a tube pan, or two loaf pans. Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl. In another large bowl, beat softened butter until fluffy. Adding sugar gradually, continue to beat until light and fluffy, scraping sides of bowl regularly. Add lemon zest and juice. Beat in eggs one at a time. Add dry ingredients a cup at a time, just until blended. Add crème fraîche, folding until thoroughly blended. Pour the thick batter into the greased and floured pan(s). Bake for about 45 to an hour, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Keep an eye on the color of the cake as it bakes: it shouldn't get too dark.

Allow the cake to cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then carefully turn out onto a wire rack, and let cool completely. (I have to write that, but I've never actually been able to keep people from "testing" it while it's still warm.)

If you want to amplify the relatively mild lemon taste, add the tangy lemon glaze. Mix confectioners' sugar with fresh lemon juice until smooth, and drizzle over the completely cooled cake and let the glaze harden.



This freshly picked bouquet was on the breakfast table. Its perfume still fills the kitchen...Happy Day to all the mothers out there.

11 May, 2010

Stormy weather.

Spring in France means smooth-skinned asparagus stalks of sharpest green, but also the more subtle white, and the rose and pale purple too. If I happen to find chopstick thin asparagus, I'll eat them raw with swirl of garlic-laced olive oil and a splash of lemon. I prefer to boil or steam medium-sized asparagus (snapping off the ends at least an inch and peeling first) until crisp-tender, about ten minutes. After biting one to be sure they're done, I'll dunk them in an ice bath to stop the cooking then dry them gently in a clean dishtowel. Finally, the kitchen fireworks. I'll toss them in a creamy cloud of intensely tarragon-inflected wowness--and yes, that's a technical word, used only in cases of outrageous, call-your-best-friend-and-crow deliciousness.
Whipped crème fraîche is what gives this dressing its signature unctuous yet light texture, and regular sour cream just makes for a sorry substitute. Making your own crème fraîche is child's play (and cheap!), as seen in this video demonstration by John Mitzewich.

If you eat your asparagus (or other vegetables) this way I promise spring will be in your heart--even with an ominously dark rainstorm on the evening horizon. (Note: the actual prepared dish--which I ate while staring out the open window--was devoured before I thought to point the camera at my plate instead of the sky. Head in the clouds, you know...)
Sauce a l'estragon (Tarragon & Crème Fraîche Dressing)

Makes enough sauce for four to six servings.

3 tablespoons crème fraîche
1 1/2 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 teaspoon dijon mustard (flavored with tarragon, if possible)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon (1/2 tablespoon if you must use dried tarragon)
1-2 teaspoons fresh lime or lemon juice
finely chopped zest of one lime or lemon
salt and freshly ground pepper

In a bowl, whip the crème fraîche lightly with a small whisk or fork. Add remaining ingredients, mixing well. Taste and adjust flavors according to degree of pungency desired. Toss with steamed and cooled asparagus.




You will be missed, dear Lena (1917-2010).
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